If you told any friend, family member or stranger that you queued in line for two hours to get into a tiny restaurant serving only four dishes to standing customers, they might think you’d lost the plot. However, three Aperol spritz later (purchased from the suspiciously positioned local bar), you’ve made some new best friends and the time has slipped away.

Bar Nestor is the perfect example of the social media effect: tourists will do anything to take a bite of the latest viral trend; myself unapologetically included. This hype combines perfectly with their genius strategy of serving only two tortillas per day, putting the scarcity effect into full play. I’m sure there are plenty of other pintxos bars in San Sebastián serving the finest tortilla de patatas, but I simply had to try Bar Nestor’s.

On entering the bar, Txakoli, a very dry local Basque white wine, is poured so high above the glass (to aerate the wine) it captivates everyone watching, turning a simple pour into a mesmerising performance.

Txakoli poured from height at Bar Nestor
Txakoli poured from height at Bar Nestor
A high pour of Txakoli, aerated over the bar

The tortilla

Now let’s get onto the tortilla itself, served at the bar and cut into around 20–25 slices (who knows for sure). The ceremony begins as the whole room eagerly anticipates their very own slice of golden perfection.

The tortilla ceremony at Bar Nestor

I can confirm the wait was worth it; gooey but not wet, with a liquid gold centre, subtle but delicious, sweet yet balanced. The things I would do for another slice.

A slice of Bar Nestor’s tortilla de patatas
A slice of Bar Nestor’s tortilla de patatas

Next come the local oxheart tomatoes drowned in the finest extra virgin olive oil, closely followed by charred salty Padrón peppers. Need I say any more?

Local oxheart tomatoes drowned in olive oil
Local oxheart tomatoes drowned in olive oil
Charred salty Padrón peppers
Charred salty Padrón peppers

Whilst devouring the above, you’re asked to choose between two beautiful steaks, large or extra large. Grilled fast on high heat, your sliced sizzling rare steak then arrives promptly served on a smoking-hot cast-iron plate, finished with an absurd (but perfect) amount of coarse sea salt.

The txuleta, sliced rare on a smoking-hot cast-iron plate
The txuleta, sliced rare on a smoking-hot cast-iron plate

The txuleta comes from mature, older dairy cattle, which carries a distinct, earthy umami flavour complemented by a rich fatty butteriness.

Txuleta at Bar Nestor, finished with coarse sea salt

Bar Nestor captures the essence of San Sebastián. No prices, no menu, true Spanish hospitality. Would I return to Bar Nestor? No, but not because it lacked excellence; simply because there are tens, if not hundreds, of other places to try. But as a first-timer, soak up the chaotic atmosphere and relish the experience in all its glory.